I woke up in the middle of the night and thought I’d pitched the tent in Jurassic Park. The cows were making a racket in the fields around the campsite. I thought cows would be quiet at night. No matter, I got a good night’s sleep overall and we were quick enough to pack up before the rain started. I could see the darkness building out over the sea and Kim was annoyed at my hurrying.
Once started the scene was set for the day. Strong winds knocking you around with horizontal rain, or sometimes rain coming up from below as we were walking clifftop paths. Gusts to make you trip and extra strong winds amplified by gullies to 40mph or faster to stagger you. The wind was from the south and we were walking to the southernmost point of mainland Britain, the Lizard, so there was no avoiding the wind.
Wet and bothered already we stopped at the cafe in Kynance Cove for an early coffee and snack, and to get out of the wind. There’s a low tide shortcut across the beach and we watched people attempt it through the window. The tide was high and the waves were strong. I didn’t see anyone washed out to sea so I reckoned it should be fine.
A small bird entered the cafe possibly not through choice. He pecked around for crumbs, saw the window and decided to leave. The window was closed and birds don’t understand glass. He agitatedly bounced off the window. I unscrewed the latch lock and lifted the latch window, letting the wind blow in and knock everything to the floor. The bird rose to the higher pane and panicked. I grabbed him gently, lowered him to the open window and lobbed him out. He opened his wings and gusted away. Kim picked my shortbread up off the floor. It’ll be fine.
We took the steps down to what was left of the beach and using my decades of expertise, deft timing and impressive speed I picked the interference of two waves and legged it across to get behind the first large boulder successfully. Kim got a wet foot. It didn’t matter, our feet were going to be wet all day anyway.
When we got to the Lizard it was a bit quieter than Land’s End. A few walkers in head to toe Gore Tex, one closed cafe, one thinking about it, and a lighthouse. We hurried through and hoped that around the headland we would get a tailwind as we moved north. The wind from behind is easier and warmer.
When it first rained it felt like it would never end but it always does. I added more layers and a Buff and walked fast to generate warmth. The front of my shirt was wet which was not a good sign. The rain stopped and became intermittent showers. The timing seemed to be that when you thought you had just about dried out the next shower would blow through and you’d be wet again. My right sleeve was soaked inside. My jacket is no longer waterproof. You always find out the hard way. We had washed and treated them before leaving but the membrane has worn out. We really batter our kit in mountains and rock climbing. At Cadgwith Cove we stopped for lunch and were looked after by an excellent barman but dried out not a bit.
Back to the wind and rain. Kim found on the path a 1918 sixpence with the head of the last king on it and her day was made. We charged along trying to stay warm. The path was largely fast and climbs helped with warmth but descents were steep, slippery and rocky.
At Poltesco there was a fishing port from the 1700s that held a capstan in a circular stone building for pulling the fishing boats up the slipway. In Victorian times it became the Serpentine works, where the attractive, local, dark red and green veined serpentine stone was cut to mantelpieces, grave stones, shop fronts and trinkets. A boom and bust industry for about 40 years and now a bit of history on the coast path.
On we charged through Kennack Sands (everyone had shut up shop) and to Black Head to the northerly finish to Coverack. The sun came out, the showers nearly ended, and colour came back to Cornwall briefly.
Close to the finish the path slowed, steepened and rocky. We scrambled and dropped, slipping on a path that was fine dust yesterday. It was less far than it looked though. As we climbed the hill to the campsite, drying out nicely, another shower dropped on us. At least this one came from above.
We expected a basic campsite which is always tricky when wet from the day. We keep down sleeping bags and jackets dry inside dry bags, and dry clothes to change into. But how to dry wet things? Usually they stay wet and you dry them by wearing them the next day. This campsite had a large covered area with benches, power sockets, WiFi faster than I have at home and drying lines. The drying lines were full, but still. These things make your day. Jackets were draped over benches as the campsite was quiet, coffee was made and biscuits were eaten. Stuff won’t dry but it will be drier than it was and the tent needn’t be full of wet stuff. Showers and dinner to follow.
We have walked 500km of the SWCP and 580km in total. We are 8km away from our main target: the halfway point of the SWCP at Porthallow.
26.7km with 1188m of ascent.