
I am now visiting member 1153 of the Braunton Cricket Club.
That’s the end of the hills for a bit, says the Ordnance Survey map. The sun was out from the start drying the tent from our sleeping breath. Suncreamed and fully watered packs. You can call me out for it later when the weather changes but I wouldn’t mind it being a bit cooler.

You do mental maths on the trail. Notes say it’s 15 miles from Woolacombe to Braunton. 10 miles is 16km. 15 miles is around 24km then. We did the 3km from Woolacombe to the start of Baggy Point so it will be around 21km to Braunton plus the walk back to the path from the campsite this morning. We’ll aim for that and see what the time is and what campsites are about.

The National Trust cafe at Croyde didn’t disappoint with cappuccino and tiffin in shade, electrical points for charging phones and colourful gardens. Croyde was rammed with people covering the sand, the shore and the sea. It looked like fun.

Through the beach bums we splashed across the stream and climbed the short steps on the other side rounding the low point. Easy but in building heat. This led us to Saunton with even more people and huge sands and dunes.

The path led us to the road with occasional irate drivers unhappy that non-cars were on their god-given tarmac. Back to the path around the links golf course, to an unexpected Cornetto at a car park shop and into a death march to the barren tip of Braunton Burrows on open gravel road under 30C sun.

The marsh dam path has collapsed but diverted onto an elevated path beside the toll road back north to Braunton interesting views returned. Decaying carcasses of marine hulls, nervous egrets, clouds of gulls and confident crows. Heat and a stony path.


Closer to Braunton we stopped to add sun cream to calves now getting griddled facing sunward with the direction change. Mobile internet connection back in range we hunted for campsites and found one only 600m off the main path. Websites showed high prices but basic facilities. We wandered over, met the owner and squeezed our tiny tent into a side pitch for £20. The showers were excellent, if also a sauna thanks to the sun. The owner pointed us towards the neighbouring cricket club that was serving beer, snacks and pizzas. We rolled in and signed up.

Social membership is required for entry, and when you’ve been walking all day in 30C heat what wouldn’t you pay for a cheery greeting, beer, pizza and a quiet corner sofa?

21.6km and 218m of ascent.